Kumartuli Retreat
Hotel or lodge, twin sharing
5 days, planned by The Monsoon Ledger
The Victoria Memorial was built between 1906 and 1921 for a queen-empress who never visited India, and it is now the best museum of the Raj anywhere.
| LANDMARKS |
|---|
| Victoria Memorial |
| Maidan |
| Park Street |
Kumartuli's workshops build the Durga idols from Hooghly clay and straw all year for one October week, after which they are immersed in the river.
| LANDMARKS |
|---|
| Kumartuli |
| College Street |
| Indian Coffee House |
| Howrah Bridge |
| Mullick Ghat flower market |
Belur Math was designed by Vivekananda to look like a temple, a church and a mosque at once, depending on the angle you approach it from.
| LANDMARKS |
|---|
| Belur Math |
| Dakshineswar |
| Hooghly river |
Chandannagar was French until 1950 — three years after the British left — and the street signs, the church and the Residency are still there.
| LANDMARKS |
|---|
| Chandannagar strand |
| Sacred Heart church |
| Dupleix House |
Kolkata has the only surviving tram network in India, running since 1902, and it is down to a couple of routes.
| LANDMARKS |
|---|
| Indian Coffee House |
| Kolkata tram |
| New Market |
Day 1 · Fri, 18 Sept, 2026
Most of these can be added to your booking later — the operator confirms within a day.
Published by the operator. Nights on the ground can move with weather and permissions.
Hotel or lodge, twin sharing
Hotel or lodge, twin sharing
4 breakfasts and 1 dinner across 5 days, at the lodges you sleep in. It opens with dinner on day 1 and closes with breakfast on day 5.
5 meal services named in the itinerary. Vegetarian and vegan covered; Jain, gluten-free and allergies on notice at booking
“India on licensed guides and heritage stays”
Licensed guides in every city and heritage properties where they exist. Named after the ledgers Rajasthani havelis kept, which is where several of the stays came from.
West Bengal done well. The itinerary had room to breathe. The team read the group well and adjusted without making a thing of it. Recommended.
Everything was arranged properly — transfers, entries, all of it. Accommodation was a notch better than the price suggested. Plenty to eat and they were happy to work around a gluten allergy. No hesitation recommending them.
Well paced over 5 days with enough free time to not feel herded. No complaints about any of the hotels — all of them well placed. The cooking was a genuine surprise — better than most places we'd have picked ourselves. Solid operator.
Thanks for writing this up. We've passed your note to the team.
Too much time on the coach and not enough at the places we'd come for.
Appreciate the honest feedback; we're looking at the pacing on that section.
Good mix of the obvious things and a few places we'd never have found. Accommodation was a notch better than the price suggested. Simple food, well made, and enough of it. Good value for what's included.
Well paced over 5 days with enough free time to not feel herded. Worth every rupee.
Thanks for writing this up. We've passed your note to the team.
West Bengal done well. The itinerary had room to breathe. Hotels were clean and central, which saved a lot of time. Never went hungry, and the tea appeared exactly when it was needed. Would send friends their way.
West Bengal done well. The itinerary had room to breathe. Good value for what's included.
It is extraordinary and it is the hardest week of the year to visit — hotels treble, the streets are impassable and everything books months ahead. Both operators run a separate Puja departure; this itinerary deliberately avoids the week.
One other operator runs this trip. See all 2 side by side →