Cuiaba Retreat
Hotel or lodge, twin sharing
8 days, planned by Pumice & Pine
Eight days in the largest wetland on earth — about ten times the Everglades, and the best place in the world to see a wild jaguar.
| LANDMARKS |
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| Cuiabá |
| Mato Grosso |
The road is raised above the floodplain on 120-odd wooden bridges and the animals use the ditches either side of it. The drive is the safari.
| LANDMARKS |
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| Transpantaneira |
| Caiman |
| Jabiru storks |
| Capybara |
The Transpantaneira simply stops at Porto Jofre. Everything past it is water.
| LANDMARKS |
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| Porto Jofre |
| Cuiabá river |
| Giant otters |
Jaguars here hunt caiman along the banks in daylight, which is why this is the one place on earth they are reliably seen.
| LANDMARKS |
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| Jaguar |
| Giant otter |
| Caiman |
| Three Brothers river |
Boats radio each other when a cat is found, which is efficient and also means a sighting can gather a dozen hulls. The good operators hang back.
| LANDMARKS |
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| Três Irmãos |
| Jaguar |
| Hyacinth macaw |
The night drive is where tapir, ocelot and crab-eating fox turn up, and almost nobody schedules one.
| LANDMARKS |
|---|
| Transpantaneira |
| Tapir |
| Nightjars |
| Ocelot |
Chapada is 800 m of red sandstone above the plain and the geographic centre of South America is marked near the town.
| LANDMARKS |
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| Véu de Noiva |
| Chapada escarpment |
| Cidade de Pedra |
Cuiabá connects through São Paulo and Brasília.
Day 1 · Fri, 18 Sept, 2026
Most of these can be added to your booking later — the operator confirms within a day.
Published by the operator. Nights on the ground can move with weather and permissions.
Hotel or lodge, twin sharing
Hotel or lodge, twin sharing
Hotel or lodge, twin sharing
Hotel or lodge, twin sharing
7 breakfasts, 5 lunches and 7 dinners across 8 days, at the lodges you sleep in. It opens with dinner on day 1 and closes with breakfast on day 8.
19 meal services named in the itinerary. Vegetarian and vegan covered; Jain, gluten-free and allergies on notice at booking
“Andes and Central America, altitude planned properly”
Every itinerary is built around where you sleep rather than where you go, because in the Andes that is the only decision that matters.
Mato Grosso was quieter than I expected and the camp was comfortable. Accommodation was a notch better than the price suggested. Good value for what's included.
Mato Grosso was quieter than I expected and the camp was comfortable. Recommended.
Early starts, but that's where the wildlife is. Well run. Rooms were comfortable and the locations meant we could walk most evenings. Food was plentiful and hot, which counts for a lot at altitude. Worth every rupee.
Thank you for travelling with us — glad the route worked out.
Excellent sightings and the guides clearly knew the area. Accommodation was a notch better than the price suggested. Plenty to eat and they were happy to work around a gluten allergy. Worth every rupee.
Mato Grosso was quieter than I expected and the camp was comfortable. Hotels were clean and central, which saved a lot of time. Crew were professional without being stiff about it. Worth every rupee.
Early starts, but that's where the wildlife is. Well run. Accommodation was a notch better than the price suggested. Good value for what's included.
Sightings were thin on our dates, which is luck, but the drives felt rushed.
Thank you. We've taken the point about the transfer and are reviewing it.
Excellent sightings and the guides clearly knew the area. Hotels were clean and central, which saved a lot of time. Meals were good throughout and the vegetarian options weren't an afterthought. No hesitation recommending them.
Higher than anywhere else on earth. Three full days on the river at Porto Jofre in the dry season gives most groups multiple sightings, because the cats hunt the banks in daylight and the water level concentrates them. It is still wildlife and nobody guarantees it — but if you want a jaguar, this is where you go.
One other operator runs this trip. See all 2 side by side →